Cesar Zirbel

Archive for the ‘Pond’ Category

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What is a koi pond without koi? A pond! Now that is boring…

Many clients who want a waterfall and koi pond do not want koi fish to take care of. Actually, a pond will require less attention with fish than without. If a koi pond has a waterfall to aerate the water, koi fish will produce waste that is broken down by nitrifying bacteria into nitrate nitrogen, and water plants will use the nitrogen and thrive. In turn, the koi fish eat the algae and small water insects that live on the rocks and plant roots. And those bugs eat other smaller bugs that eat microscopic bugs that eat bad bacteria bugs. This is called the nitrogen cycle. A properly balanced koi pond like this will pretty much take care of itself.

Koi fish food can get lodged in the plants, rocks and vegetation around the perimeter of the koi pond. If the koi fish cannot find the food, it simply decays, adding unnecessary nitrates to the water and resulting in more food for algae to grow. To eliminate this problem I fashioned what I term as a Koi Fish Food Corral made from a 4 to 5 foot piece of 1-1/2 inch flexible PVC pipe and fastened together with a single 1-1/2 inch coupling, creating a circular corral.

This corral keeps the koi food in one place, and prevents it from floating off into rock crevices, plants or the skimmer. Plus it allows for the proper portioning of koi food. It is easy to tell if you’ve given the koi fish too much. If food is still there after a couple of minutes and the koi fish seem to have had enough, they have, and you should remove the leftovers. Lay it in the sun to dry and feed it to them later. It is easy to collect the extra food that the koi fish don’t eat by using a small net. It is better to feed them too little than too much. In a case like this, more is not better.

Sometimes my clients originally expressed a concern that koi fish would be a burden or a hassle. They would worry about having to feed them daily, or what they would do when going on vacation. I would explain that the koi fish are extremely important with regard to their contribution to the nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is what makes a koi pond low in maintenance and nearly self-sufficient.

As long as you only stock the koi pond with small fish such as guppies and mosquito fish, they will never need to be fed. They can exist solely on food that the pond provides naturally.

A chlorinated pond, on the other hand, requires continuous maintenance. The chlorine dissipates from the water as it flows over the falls and turns into chlorine gas. This means that fresh chlorine needs to be added regularly and your backyard will smell like a swimming pool all the time. The chlorine also causes many minerals and suspended particles to precipitate and build up on the rocks, causing unsightly white stains in the water’s path.

When chlorine is not added regularly, leaves and other decaying debris in the pond will cause algae to grow, turning the pond green. So after convincing the client to give my suggestion a try, I returned a few weeks later to find that they have not only purchased some large koi fish, but have given them all cute names, like Charlie and Doug.

If the client wishes to have larger fish such as koi, the nitrogen cycle will need a little extra help from a biological filter and an ultraviolet light. The larger the number and size of the koi fish, the greater the waste material produced. This means that some of it must be removed from the water. Increased quantities of nitrates and nitrites increase the amount of ammonia and other by-products such as pea soup algae, the type that turns the water green. A biological filter will aid in the breakdown of toxic nitrites into less harmful nitrates, and an ultraviolet light will kill algae spores and disease-causing pathogens as they pass through the UV light on the way to the filter.

So, what else can I say to convince you to get fish? They are fun to watch? They are cute? They come in handy during times of famine? Got fish? Got turtles? Got tadpoles? No? Then, get some! Your pond will be much more appealing and exciting. It is like having the Learning Channel or Discovery Channel in your back yard.

Every day brings a new discovery: baby fish hatching; a dragonfly struggling from its cocoon; a tadpole slowly, very slowly, turning into a frog; two crayfish, doing what they do to make baby crayfish… now that is a discovery! A turtle, shedding its shell… now that is a miracle. If you have kids or grandkids, or neighbor kids, grab some or all of them and make it an adventure. Pile them into the car or bus and go to the local pond store and gather up a passel of predacious and peculiar pond creatures. Better yet — build a koi pond first and then do it.

Happy koi, peace and joy.

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Doing a full pond cleaning during the colder winter months can be

very stressful on your fish. However, if the pond is really

dirty and full of ‘muck’ – then you may want to consider it

because all of the decaying organic matter in the pond can cause

problems if the pond ices over, and this begins to de-gas and

rot.

So, I think the best solution, and what we used to do for our

clients was do a partial Fall pond cleaning.

Here’s how to do it:

First, get a container that will hold roughly 100 gallons or so,

or up to half of your pond volume (bigger is better). Then take

a pump with a hose, and pump out the relativel ‘clean’ water from

your pond by holding the pump just beneath the water surface.

Keep as much of the ‘old’ pond water as you can. Then, catch

your fish (if possible) and place them into the holding tank of

their own (clean) water.

Then you can either net out your leaves and dispose of them,

along with any muck that you can get out also. Alternatively,

you can then pump out the remaining water and do a thorough clean

out, including vacuuming out the pond with a large wet/dry vac

(this works great!).

Then refill the pond back up to the level it was at before

disposing of the water, de-chlorinate the water, and adjust the

pH to match that of the ‘old’ water in your holding tank. At

this point, start pumping new water from the pond into your

holding tub, and then pumping the mixture back into the pond. Do

this for 15-20 minutes until the new water mixture matches that

in the pond – and then pump the remaining water back into your

pond while netting your fish back in as well.

But it’s very important not to expose your fish to new water

conditions too quickly as differences in temperature and pH can

cause extreme stress to your fish, affect the immune system, and

even cause shock or fish death. So always be careful when

changing water.

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Generally levels of 50-170 are what is recommended although some Koi keepers are keeping their pond levels even higher at around 180. The reason for this is that alkalinity will decrease over time as the good bacteria in your pond consume bicarbonates which slowly decreases alkalinity.

Alkalinity can also be referred to as carbonate hardness or German carbonate hardness. It is the measure of the concentration of the capacity a solution has to neutralize acid without changing pH. It both maintains and controls water pH. Koi pond alkalinity level can be measured in parts per million of calcium carbonate (ppm of CaCO3), milligrams per liter (mg/L), grams per cubic meter or degrees (dKH).

Test kits measure alkalinity as carbonate hardness or dKH and often in degrees of German Hardness (odH).If you want to convert German Hardness to parts per million (ppm) you can simply multiply by 17.

In spite of the fact that that a pH of 7.4 is best for Koi fish it can be a good idea to keep th pH level a little higher. pH levels can crash quite quickly when your alkalinity (KH) begins getting lower than 80 ppm. Since alkalinity is the buffer that helps maintain pH it is important to test it regularly. You may find that it’s better to keep your Koi pond alkalinity level above 100 or 120 pm. It will give you a bit of a buffer zone to help maintain your pH.

There are several ways that you can add alkalinity to your pond.  One way to do this is through water changes. This can help introduce new minerals and can also increase alkalinity. However, if you have softer water it’s alkalinity can be less than 80 ppm. You can increase both the pH and KH by adding Arm & Hammer Baking Soda to the water. One third cup of baking soda per 1000 gallons of water will raise the KH level by 25 ppm.

Make sure that you take care not to raise the KH level more than 25 ppm a day. If you do it will cause undue stress to your Koi. An exception to this is if you are losing fish to a pH crash. A pH crash is when the pH level hits 5.5 or lower. In this case you have nothing to lose by adding a bit more baking soda to the water.

Water doesn’t have to have a high pH to have high alkalinity. Alkalinity is related to the dissolved amounts of calcium, magnesium and other compounds in the water. This is why alkalinity tends to be higher in hard water as opposed to soft water.

There are various reasons that Koi pond alkalinity level will decrease over time.

Decreases occur naturally over time due to bacterial action which produces acidic compounds which combine with and decrease alkaline components.

Ponds with fiberglass construction or vinyl liners tend to exhibit a higher decrease in alkalinity over time and might need supplementation to help them maintain proper levels. Alkalinity can be raised by adding calcium carbonate, oyster shells, concrete blocks, egg shells or limestone.

High alkalinity can be prevented by routinely changing out the water if the water you are replenishing with has a lower alkalinity than the pond water.

An established pond usually maintains an equilibrium in it’s pH value if you keep it clean by removing sludge and any organic materials before they have time to decay. Scheduled water change outs (i.e. 10% / week for small ponds, less for larger ponds) can also help maintain proper pH and Koi pond alkalinity level.

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There are three established methods for building a backyard pond or body of water which are:



1) Building a concrete basin

2) Building a basin with a vinyl liner

3) Using a preformed plastic pond

Concrete Basins:

Using concrete to build a backyard pond is the most expensive method as well as requiring the highest degree of skill overall to successful achieve. Concrete working requires experience, and waterproof concrete working is a vastly more complex subject that simply mixing and placing cement. For the average DIY pond builder concrete seems to be a poor choice in many respects.

Liner Basins:

Building a basin with a vinyl liner is less costly than concrete basic construction, and on par with preformed plastic basins in terms of overall project costs. The skill level required to build a pond with a liner as your primary source of waterproofing is much higher than using a preformed plastic pond as the basis of your backyard pond project, however fantastic and realistic pond and waterfall landscapes can be created using this method.

Of primary concern to building a pond with a vinyl liner is creating a supporting layer that will protect the liner from puncture or damage once the weight of the water is on top of the liner. Additionally the possibility for damage due to mice, rats, raccoons, dogs, birds and other animals as well as overhead trees and wind swept debris being thrown into the pond is a concern.

The liner itself is expensive and the installation process is somewhat difficult and labour intensive so this might be a poor choice for a water retention material if you are looking for a durable and long lasting pond solution. You could potentially install buffer layers such as foam or even a second layer or thicker liner, but the cost of doing this is somewhat prohibitive to DIY enthusiasts trying to get the most out of their landscaping budget.

Preformed Plastic Basins:

The most cost effective and DIY friendly backyard pond is a solution that uses a preformed plastic or resin shells as the basis for the pond and waterfall. By recessing the pond below grade, or by landscaping with artificial rocks you can actually build a huge pond and waterfall feature that is the central focus of your backyard for a few hundred dollars. You can even use second hand items for building materials and work your costs down much further.

The pond shell itself is easy enough to find and install, and building your own artificial rock waterfall and landscaping rocks is incredibly inexpensive since concrete and sand are the two most readily available and inexpensive construction materials on the planet. The options for the different methods of building ponds can also be noted by looking at swimming pools. As with ponds the three most common and proven methods for creating waterproof bodies of water are concrete basin, vinyl liner basin and fibreglass resin pools.

Choosing the correct DIY project to match your skill and budget is critical when deciding how to build your own pond landscape. If you are looking to build a long lasting, cost effective and easy to complete backyard waterfall then a preformed plastic pond with an artificial rock waterfall and landscape is the way to go.

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Creating a pond in your garden whether it is with waterfalls, fish or plants is an excellent way to beautify your home, and help the chain of life to continue in the animal community. Pond water features are a great way to add mobility and flow to any garden or yard landscape. A garden pond is essential for creating beauty for the eyes and ears, relaxation, and species renewal for aquatic animals.

Types of Ponds

There are several types of ponds that can be created to accommodate any type of home decor. There are formal ponds made from concrete, bricks and mortar. There are natural ponds made from rocks and pebbles. There are stand alone pods made with pots, glass and steel structures. There are waterfall and fountain ponds and there are dry ponds made from wood, rocks, pebbles and no water.

Eco-Friendly way to conserve Water

There are ways to conserve as much water as possible in the ponds with water features. You can use drought tolerant plants that don’t require much water. Pond less waterfalls, grey water which is water that is recycled from inside the house or rain water. Also a plant garden or a rain garden can be utilized. Another way to conserve water is to create shade in the garden this will keep the plants naturally cool and they will not need as much water.

How Ponds help the Environment

Ponds bring fish, algae, bacteria and food for all types of flies and other creatures that feed off of the bacteria from fish and the fish keep the water at the proper nitrate level through their excrement. It is all a nice natural balance that is provided by the fish, insects and plants. There is leafy debris and fish debris that gives the much needed bacteria to the pond to keep it functioning.

Conclusion

Creating a pond with pond water features is an excellent way to conserve the natural food chain in the small insect world. It is also a great way to create a stress free home environment. It is very easy to install and maintain a garden pond and there are so many rewards achieved for the owner and the animals it houses. Creating a haven for insects and natural environments will allow for the natural process of growth and elimination among the food chain.

The best way to create and maintain a garden pond with water features is to slowly integrate the fish and plants into the pond. The best seasons to do this are in the spring and summer. Once the fish and plants have acclimated then more creatures ad plants can be added. Never throw them all in together at the very beginning. The fish have to have time to create the right amount of bacteria in the water to make it home for the plants and other fish.

A Garden pond with water features can be created with great landscaping models and it can be done to fit everyone’s budget. Create the design around your current home features and it will be wonderful. Research and study up before starting any installations.

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The ph levels in your pond are critical when it comes to having healthy happy fish and a clear fish pond but what are these levels, how do you achieve them and how should you monitor them?

What is ph? Ph is a measure of acidity and alkalinity In an ideal world your pond should register a ph reading of 7.0 or possibly a little higher as this would mean the water is neutral (neither acid or alkaline) Ideally you pond should have ph levels of neutral or slightly basic (a little higher than 7.0)

So what will happen if your pond has a lower ph. Well you will probably find that if the water is too acidic it will be toxic to your fish. You will find the fish coming to the surface to gasp fresh air. Their resistance to disease will also be lowered. Any plants you have in the pond will show signs of stunted growth and the useful bacteria you have in your pond will become ineffective.

If you move on to the other end of the scale and your ph levels become too high then the ammonia build up in the pond will build up its toxicity. This will cause the fish to have fungus, diseases especially respiratory ones, you may also find that the fish will begin to lose their colour. Once again the growth of plants and useful bacteria will be affected.

As you can see from above the ph levels of your pond are critical to the wellbeing of the inhabitants so it is best to keep them monitored. You can purchase a pond ph kit from your local water garden set which is a very simple way of measuring.

If you do need to adjust your levels you can also purchase special chemicals that will help you do this however to maintain a stable environment and not shock your fish it is best not to adjust by more than 0.02 ph units per day. Any more than this could do more harm than good.

Remember to periodically check the ph of your pond so you can provide the optimum environment for everything living within it. Click on my signature below to receive more tips on how to care for your fish pond.

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So you have decided to build a garden pond? Congratulations! With a little bit of time, effort, and money you can build a pond that is both beautiful and functional. Below you will find a checklist of what needs to be done to construct a garden pond in your backyard, as well as a list of additional things that you will want to consider when designing your pond.

The Basics

Step 1: Design/Plan your dream pond. This step in the process is not one to be taken lightly. You need to decide the best place to put your pond, how big you want it to be, the shape/depth, whether you want fish or not, and many other details. Changing your plan mid-construction will likely cost you both time and money. Write down all of your ideas and create a list of the things that you want your pond to have, and what you could do without.

Step 2: Outlining your pond. You will want to use a garden hose, or twine and stakes to outline the general shape of your pond. Double check to make sure that it isn’t in the way of power or water lines, and is away from overhanging trees or other environmental hazards.

Step 3: Start Digging. This is the most labor intensive part of the process. You can either dig the pond yourself, or hire someone to do it for you.

Step 4: Line your pond. Depending on the type of liner that you choose, this can be a simple or a complex procedure. If you use a PVC liner, it is simply a matter of getting the liner in place and smoothing out bubbles to make it conform to the shape of your pond. Fiberglass and concrete linings (which are more durable and long lasting) require more prep work.

Step 5: Finish up the liner. If you are using PVC lining, you will want to leave a couple of inches around the edge of your pond for rocks and edging. If you choose fiberglass or cement, you will want to make sure that the application was completed properly, and your system is flushed ready for water.

Step 6: Decorate! Small and large rocks strategically placed around the outer rim of your pond will help conceal the liner and make it appear more natural. You can be as creative as you want with this process.

Step 7: Stock your pond. If you plan to put plants or fish in your pond, this is the time to do it. You will likely want to wait a while before introducing fish, and test the water often to make sure that the water levels are acceptable for supporting life.

Additional Items to Think About

If you follow the steps above you will have a simple garden pond to enjoy for many years to come! If you plan on having any fish or want to design a medium to large pond, you will also want to read up on filtration systems, waterfalls, and the various types of plant and animal life for your pond.

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Pond turnover is a phenomenon that would go largely unnoticed if it weren’t for the sometimes awful consequences. Mild turnover can leave your water cloudy for a couple days.

Severe turnover can kill thousands of fish, and leave your property smelling like a month-old rotting egg.

What is pond turnover? How does it affect my pond? How to I prevent turnover from occurring?

The purpose of this blog is to answer these questions-helping the average homeowner to find a solution to their pond turnover problem.

What is Pond Turnover?

Pond turnover is a term used to describe the mixing of the stagnant, or ‘stratified,’ waters in a pond.  Stratification is an occurrence whereby the water separates into three distinct layers-like a layer cake-each with its own different temperature and dissolved oxygen levels.

The upper level, known as the epilimnion, is composed of warm, lighter water that has high dissolved oxygen content – this is where fish tend to dwell. The middle layer of a pond is known as the thermocline; in this ‘transitional’ layer, water temperature and dissolved oxygen level become lower with depth.

Finally, the lowest layer of a pond is referred to as the hypolimnion. This layer is the coldest and most oxygen deprived of the three, as it is sheltered from any atmospheric conditions by the above two layers. Pond turnover is when weather conditions favor the mixing of these layers.

As the epilimnion is cooled by the fall air to a temperature below that of the lower layers, it becomes denser and sinks-mixing the layers together into a uniform temperature and density. The exact opposite occurs after winter-and the cycle continues annually. Sometimes cold rains and heavy winds can provoke an additional mid-summer turnover, as well.

How does Turnover Affect My Pond or Lake?

Organic matter like dead plants and fish, leaves, etc. sink to and accumulate in the lowest level, the hypolimnion, because gravity naturally pulls it there. Unfortunately, this layer has little to no oxygen that would help aerobic, or oxygen breathing, bacteria break down the material. Instead, anaerobic, or non-oxygen breathing bacteria do the job. Not only are these bacteria seventeen times slower than their aerobic counterparts, they also release toxic gasses like methane, hydrogen sulfide, and ammonia as they digest.

This toxic gas gets trapped in the hypolimnion, and is released all at once when the levels mix. So, how does this turnover affect your pond? It does four things:

The toxic gasses released poison the fish, causing a fish kill
Aerobic bacteria are given access to organic matter once locked at the bottom, quickly sucking all the oxygen out of the water and suffocating your fish
The odor of the released gasses fills the surrounding area, including your home, with rancid odors
The mucky hypolimnion clouds your water, causing your pond to appear very dirty
How Do I Prevent Turnover From Occurring?

Two things need to happen in order to prevent the ill effects of pond turnover. The first thing you need to do is mix the layers of your pond to keep them from stratifying. The second thing you need to do is provide oxygen throughout the entire pond, promoting the consumption of organic matter by aerobic bacteria.

Not only will the air avoid the production of toxic gasses, but it will also ensure that your fish are given ample air to breathe. Both of these are important to avoiding fish kills and noxious odors.

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A filter will also provide oxygen for your pond, fish in poorly oxygenated water will become stressed and die. Adequate filtration cannot be achieved by the small foam prefilter placed on the intake of a pump (this is there mainly to protect the pump).

Koi are large, active fish that produce large amounts of waste and use up lots of oxygen. Pond fish are just like any other animal in that they excrete waste that will be toxic if left to accumulate in their bodies. That is the function of a pond filter; to reduce the deadly ammonia from the waste your Koi produces. Ideally your pump and filter need to process the total volume of the pond at least once every two hours. Remember, do not switch off your filter for more than 12 hours or the oxygen-dependent nitrifying bacteria will start to die.

Garden Pond Filter Options

For a small garden pond an internal filter will sit inside of your pond. The internal filter will generally consist of large foam blocks that replace the pumps strainer. When first matured, this type of filter is undoubtedly very efficient, but it suffers from the inevitable drawback of area blocking caused by a build-up of heavy solid waste products and the formation of colonies of anaerobic bacteria.

External filters consist of an external chamber placed outside of the pond. Although external filtration systems are considerably more expensive to build and more complicated in their construction, they are far more effective and maintainable. Draining debris is simple and analyzing water quality and condition is effortless. External filters fall into two main groups, those which are pump fed and those fed by gravity.

Pump-fed single-chamber filter units are the most widely used. They can be installed in minutes, even on an existing pond. There are easy to find in commercial pond shops, even for a large 2,000 gallon pond.

Gravity-fed multichamber filters are constructed or installed at the same physical level as the pond so that the water level in both is identical. Therefore, if water is drawn from one end of the filter, gravity carries a fresh supply to the filter. Irrespective of how many chambers are used, water will flow from chamber to chamber, passing through successive blocks of media as it progresses. Water is transferred from chamber to chamber via transfer ports, and these must be of sufficient size to ensure there is no restriction of flow. This is an excellent filter system but it is relatively expensive unless you can design your own.

Pressurized filters are totally sealed and can be buried, with the return consisting of tubing feeding directly into the pond or through a waterfall. This makes pressure filters sympathetic to the natural look. They are a small size, tend to block quickly, and need regular maintenance. They are suited to smaller ponds.

A Skimmer Filter is suitable for medium to large ponds up to 5,000 gallons. It is installed adjacent to the pond through the pond wall.

A Garden Pond Filter is the best filtration system you can have to keep Koi alive and healthy, unless you have a natural stream flowing through your yard.

Filtration Systems must be treated like the living entities they are. If they are not provided with oxygen, water, and food, they will deteriorate and die. For this reason, a bio filter must be run continuously, ensuring that the bacteria are provided with the materials for life.

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Koi ponds require a lot of time and maintenance. If you are not ready to invest time into your koi pond, then you should most definitely not invest the money into one. Koi do function as beautiful garden “decorations,” in a sense, but they are really much more like pets than simple garden décor.

This is because you are going to need to take the time to care for koi much like you need to take the time to care for pets. You want to be sure that your koi pond is a very healthy environment so that your Japanese carp will flourish. Also, you want to make sure that your water remain clear so that you can enjoy your koi.

Here are things to consider before building your koi pond:

· The bigger the better. It is best to build a koi pond that is larger than 500 gallons.

· The deeper the better. Make sure that it is at least 2 feet deep, but preferably much deeper (a 6 foot deep koi pond takes up no more room in your yard than a 2 foot deep one!)

· Include at least one bottom drain.

· Be sure that the bottom slopes toward the drain and away from any incoming water (like waterfalls, etc.)

· Make a good shape. To be a proper Japanese koi pond, shape and style of the pond itself is everything. For your own pond, you can simply choose a shape that is most aesthetically pleasing to your own eye (and a shape that fits well in your yard!).

· Vertical walls will increase your pond volume and help protect your koi from predators.

· Have a pond skimmer system. Look for one with a “weir.”

· Use a specialized biological filtration system instead of a mechanical or chemical filtration system.

· Heat it during the winter.

· Keep a good feeding regime.

· Keep a good cleaning regime.

These are just a few things that you must do or must be aware of before creating your own koi pond. If you are still interested in doing so, then go for it!

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