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Archive for the ‘Pontiac’ Category

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There are many pedal car models that are today regarded as classics and coveted by collectors. Murray is one of the more collectible pedal car manufacturers; countless Murray pedal cars were produced over the years. Among these is the Murray pedal version of the 1948 Pontiac. This was much the same as the later Sad Face model, with the exception of the trademark front end of the Sad Face. However, this model was actually designed after the 1948 model year Pontiac, while the Sad Face was not designed after a particular model. This included such variations as a fire truck, fire chief’s car, and station wagon.

The 1948 model was discontinued in 1950 with the introduction of the Champion. The 1950-51 Champion, also known as the “dip side”, was a very popular pedal toy model, with countless variations. In contrast to pedal cars of the 1940′s, including the ’48 Pontiac, the Champion featured straighter sides with fewer curves. The Champion “Straight Side” featured even less curving, particularly around the fenders.

The Murray “Sad Face” car was manufactured from 1950-1951 to 1958, and today remains one of the most popular lines ever made. These cars are so named because of the shape of the front of the car, which forms a downward curve. The rounded curves made the Sad Face design a very strong body, so many have survived to the present day.

Originally, the sad face pedal car came in three versions, including a sedan, a fire truck, and a station wagon. Other models included a dump truck and a fire chief’s car. Unlike many other pedal cars of that era, the Sad Face was not designed to replicate any specific real car model. A steel car, this toy also included chrome hood ornaments, chromed hub caps, and other classic details. It is known for its graceful curves and classic look. Today, the classic “Sad Face” design is one of the most popular reproduction models.

The Murray “Flat Face” of the late 1950′s was designed to look more modern than the curved-line versions of the 1940′s, continuing the trend from rounded sides to flat sides. It was made in many different variations, and reminds many of the ’59 Ford.

The “V” Front Murray, first produced in 1960, was named for the design of the front of the car, above the bumper. It was produced in several variations until the line was discontinued in 1967. The “V Front” is one of the last popular all-steel pedal toys produced.

Although these are the most popular Murray pedal cars, there were countless others, including a very unique boat-shaped pedal car variously sold as the Dolphin, the Skipper, and the Jolly Roger. The Three Wheeler, introduced in 1955, had only one front wheel, and was sold in three variations: Airport Jet Service, Radar Patrol, and Good Humor. The Murray Jet, also with one wheel in the front, included versions sold as the Atomic Missile, the Supersonic Jet, and the Sky Rocket.

Check out Classic Pedal Cars selection of Murray Sad Face Cars you’ll love them!

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Duesenberg was a well know auto maker from Indiana. Fred and August Duesenberg were the two brothers that started the company. They were self taught engineers that decided to pursue the auto industry. The brothers built their cars by hand and at the time they were considered to be among the best cars available. One of their cars finished the Indy 500 in 10th place. One of the Duesenberg cars was driven in the French Grand Prix and won the victory.

Duesenberg went from New Jersey to a factory in Indianapolis. They began to launch a full line of passenger cars that were not quite like any other available at that time. The brothers had a hard time selling their very first model. They only made 667 of them. In 1926 the company was purchased by the owner of Cord Automobile. He was more than happy to pay for the fantastic skills that the brother’s had to offer. They produced a vehicle that was more than a regular luxury car; it was astounding in comparison to other cars. It had a shocking 265 horsepower.

It didn’t take long for the Duesenberg to become widely popular in both Europe and the United States. Rich and famous people loved the Duesenberg including Clark Gable. The advertising claims for this car insisted that it was the best car choice in the world which many owners backed up. Duesenberg continued to make better, faster, supercharged models which could put out as much as 400 horsepower. For cars of that time it was absolutely impressive. Many of these models are incredibly rare. Due to financial problems the Cord Company had to soon stop production on Duesenberg cars. That took place in 1937.

After the end of World War II August Duesenberg tried his best to bring their name back to life. He made many different attempts to restart his business but it just didn’t pan out the way he hoped. He fought all the way into the 1970s to recreate the prior success of the business. Duesenberg teamed up with Chrysler and even Pontiac at different points yet the production numbers never did get all that high. The fact that Duesenberg cars were pretty high priced may have had something to do with that. It wasn’t uncommon to see them with $60,000 price tags.

In more recent years some of the old classic Duesenberg models were recreated with a Ford engine inside and added features to make it comfortable and luxurious. There were only a few of these cars made and they sold for as much as $225,000. Many of the old Duesenberg cars are still around today as classics. Some of the classic models are in high demand by collectors and are worth an extreme amount. Though it might sound shocking, an old Duesenberg car in good condition may be worth as much as one million dollars. Some are even worth more than that.

An interesting fact is that the American slang term “that was a doozy” was actually derived from the nickname for the Duesenberg, “Duesey” since it was so fast and powerful. For a car that lived such a short span of years, it certainly has made a lasting impact.

Have a fun and safe time on the road, and visit us to find the best deal on the auto insurance coverage you need. Get money-saving tips, free auto insurance quotes and helpful car insurance advice at http://www.AutoInsuranceRatesDirect.com today.

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In automobile sector, speed and cost-effectiveness are two of the strangest bedfellows. The cost of the vehicle speeds past the lower limits quickly as the power of the engine increases. The same is the case with fuel efficiency. As with every other item in the market, low price is accompanied by certain compromises. Luxury is one and the capacity of the engine is another. To put it bluntly, you cannot buy one of those fastest vehicles with high fuel efficiency at a low price. But those who look for fast and economic cars need not get disappointed. There are certain brands that are fast enough and not costly as those fastest cars. One can also go for second hand cars.

Let us first check out the used car market. Here you will get any of those fastest brands at a very lower price. The problem is the condition of the vehicle. It depends on the care the previous owner had provided to the car. If you are lucky, it would have been well maintained. But it is always a chance. You can get the vehicle inspected by a trusted mechanic. But still, all the problems will not be obvious even to those experienced eyes. Also, the condition of the vehicle is a big factor in determining the price. If it is ridiculously cheap, one can be almost certain that it have been ridiculously maintained. So, going for a used fast and economic car is an option that sounds fantastic theoretically, but can be nightmarish if practical aspects go wrong.

Among used car segments, BMW 330d offers good value for money. It is a durable vehicle. It is good buy if the car had been maintained properly. Audi A4 Cabriolet convertible is another good option for a used car. It is really cost effective and fast enough. Another choice for fast and economic car in the used car segment that will slightly costlier than the above two models is Mercedes C-Class Sports Coupe.

If you intend to buy a brand new car Renault Clio 1.5 sCi Dynamique is a really good option for a fast and economic car. It is not unbelievably fast; not definitely formula one racing stuff. But it is not very expensive. Also, it provides a heart-warming mileage of 72 mpg at 80 mph on highways. Naturally, mileage is slightly less on non-highways: 55 to 65 mpg at 60 mph. The control and the ease of driving it provides even when going at maximum speed are the other advantages of this car.

Here is the list of top ten economic cars compiled be the prestigious Forbes magazine:

1. Toyota Yaris,

2. Honda Fit,

3. Toyota Corolla,

4. Nissan Versa,

5. Chevrolet Aveo,

6. Ford Focus,

7. Toyota Matrix,

8. Kia Rio,

9. Hyundai Accent,

10. Pontiac Vibe.

Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about Fast and Economic Cars [http://fastestcarsblog.info/fast-and-economic-cars], please visit Fastest Cars [http://fastestcarsblog.info] for current articles and discussions.

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As you’re driving down the turnpike and approaching the tollbooth, you reach for the switch to lower your window and nothing happens. The switch moves but the window does not budge. Not even a noise from the window motor can be heard which strongly suggests to you that the device is not functioning. You must stop your car and open up the door to pay the attendant before continuing on your trip. Thoughts of an expensive car repair bill are dancing through your head, putting you in a foul mood and tempering the anticipated fun of your getaway weekend. Don’t despair: you can repair the power window yourself and save a bundle over expensive dealership charges. Let’s take a look at the steps you can take to fix the problem yourself and save a lot of cash in the process.

Before assuming that the window regulator must be replaced you should first rule out the possibility of dirty electrical contacts. On most cars the main power for all switches goes through the master switch located at the driver’s console. Sometimes the switch is dirty causing the window to malfunction. If this is the case, take the necessary steps to clean the contact and your problem should be resolved.

Should you determine that the contacts are clean and your switch is functioning, then it is likely that the motor has burned out and is in need of replacing. Whether you are installing a Honda window regulator or a Volkswagen window regulator, or a regulator for any other make the steps involved in replacing a window regulator are usually quite similar:

1. Remove the door panel for the affected window.

2. Locate and remove the bolts holding the regulator to the door; it is likely you will have to manually lower the window in order to access the bolts.

3. Remove the old regulator, disconnect all wiring, and replace the old regulator with a new one you have purchased from a parts supplier. Shop online to find the best value as you will pay a mint if you order one through a dealership.

4. Tighten the bolts holding the new regulator and reinstall the moisture barrier. Make sure all the wires are put back in the door before closing the door panel.

5. Engage the power window switch and the new regulator should work unimpeded.

Of course, follow your car’s repair manual for specific instructions.

I’ve given to you a general outline to convince you that this is a task that even a novice mechanic can handle – in other words: you can do it! By handling the problem yourself, you’ll save plenty of money by avoiding garages who will mark up the replacement part as well as tack on several hours of labor costs to your bill. Shop online to compare prices and to receive the best shipping and handling arrangements available.

Matt is a contributing writer for Car Parts Stuff.

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With GM’s downsizing efforts, the new 2010 Pontiac G5 does not have any new features to write home about. The only changes to the U.S. coupe for the 2010 year are the addition of two new colors. Another disappointing attribute, as seen also in the 2009 model, is the axe of the G5′s high performance option. The only engine option available for the automobile is the 2.2-liter inline four-cylinder which boasts a paltry 155 HP and 150 foot pounds of torque.

Although the 2.2-liter engine offered with the automobile seems a little underpowered for many consumers, the advantage of this modest engine is the increased fuel mileage. The 2010 model has one of the best fuel economy ratings for its class; the base sedan offers 24 miles per gallon city and 33 mpg highway, while the XFE package increases the figure to 25 city and 37 respectively.

The largest gains in fuel economy can be found when the vehicle is mated with GM’s reliable 5-speed manual transmission. The four speed automatic units shift smoothly and the loss in fuel efficiency is almost negligible. Several trim options are available for the 2010 model, including a GT styling package.

While the 2010 model certainly screams sport coupe styling, the current available 2.2 liter four-cylinder is all about fuel economy, rather than performance. In this day and age, with fuel prices at a premium, the new Pontiac vehicle answers the call of most consumers when it comes to affordability and economy.

Ronnie Tanner is a contributing writer at http://www.swengines.com He writes about selecting used engines and choosing this as an alternative to costly car purchases.

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Choosing a new car isn’t just about choosing the latest model or choosing the car with all the bells and whistles but it should also be choosing the safest car possible for your budget. Not only does a safe car mean that you will be better off if you are in an accident but having a car with the latest safety features can mean discounts on your insurance rate. The two major safety features involve prevention, meaning how well a vehicle is designed to prevent an accident and crash worthiness, meaning how well a vehicle performs in a crash test.

A good resource in finding out what the safest cars are is checking with Consumer Reports Magazine. Consumer Reports magazine utilizes safety test results from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, which performs full-frontal crashes and side-impact collisions and the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, which tests vehicles in an offset-frontal crash, a more common type.

Consumer Reports magazine uses the test results of these two agencies to compare 85 vehicles in terms of accident avoidance, crash protection and overall safety. Higher overall scores go to the models that have done well in accident avoidance and crash protection and can improve your chance of avoiding or surviving a crash.

According to Consumer Reports magazine, these are the safest cars on the market currently:

Upscale and large sedans.

The Lexus ES300, the Audi A4 and the BMW 330i topped the charts. The Buick LeSabre Limited and Chrysler 300M came in at the bottom of 14 vehicles tested in this category.

Family sedans.

The Volkswagen Passat GLX (V6) came in at number one, with the Toyota Camry XLE (V6) close behind. The four-cylinder Passat GLS, the Nissan Altima 3.5 SE and the Subaru Legacy also did well in this category. Safety dogs were the Pontiac Grand Prix GT, the Oldsmobile Alero and the Pontiac Grand Am.

Small cars.

Volkswagen also took top honors in the battle of the bantamweights. The VW Golf TDI came in at No.1. Close behind was the Honda Civic EX and the Volkswagen Jetta GLS TDI. Trailing in this category were the Hyundai Elantra GLS and the Chevrolet Cavalier LS.

Of course there are other safety features to consider. For example, potentially vulnerable individuals, such as women traveling alone, personal security in and around a stationary vehicle may be of great importance. The first level of safety, for any vehicle, is that your remote control, or key, should initially unlock one door only. If it can just unlock all of the doors simultaneously, there is always the risk that someone with evil intentions could enter the vehicle, or reach in and grab something, as you are getting in.

It is also important to remember that any vehicle is only as safe as the person driving it. So your first line of safety is to be an alert and safe driver.

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The 1973 Pontiac Trans Am is the finest TransAM that Pontiac ever built. Not even Knight Rider’s bird can compare to the 73 TA. Growing up, I had a 1977 Trans Am (Smokey & The Bandit style) and as much fun as it was to drive, if there was a greener grass on the other side, it was the 73 Trans Am. This is the American muscle car dream!

2nd Generation Bird

The 1973 Trans Am is a Second Generation Firebird (2nd gen is from 1970 to 1981). Of the less than 5,000 that were built, the 455 SD (Super Duty) with a 4-speed manual transmission is one of the rarest birds out there with only 72 produced. Pontiac produced a total of 252 Trans Am’s with 455 SD engines in 1973.

455 Super Duty Engine Legacy

According to Pontiac‘s specs, the 455 SD in a 4-speed manual tranny produced 290 horsepower at 4,000 RPM and 395 Lbs/Ft torque at 3,600 RPM. Pretty pathetic when compared to today’s horsepower to displacement ratio, but nonetheless, still a rock star in its day.

What’s the worst thing that could happen to a 455 SD gas guzzler engine? If you guessed the October 1973 Middle Eastern OPEC nations oil embargo, you win. The Arab oil embargo stopped exports to the US and other Western nations to punish the West for supporting Israel (their enemy in the Yom Kippur War) and to exercise influence through the power of their oil. Until this event, almost no one in America cared about their energy consumption. In 1973, gas prices shot up by several hundred percent followed by the worst recession since the great depression. Suddenly, 30-40 cents per gallon looked cheap compared to the 70+ cents it was heading to.

About The Author:

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Russell William Wallace AKA “Rusty” is a legend and champion who has left his mark on the world of NASCAR. He is eighth on the all-time win list with his 55 series wins. Before joining the NASCAR circuit, in the 1970′s he became known around the Midwest for winning more than 200 short track races. As a rookie, Rusty started 2 races in 1980 and by 1984 he had raced a full season. That season brought 2 top-fives, a 14th place points finish, and Rookie of the Year honors.

Rusty is known for having a bit of a temper off the track. He once threw a water bottle at Dale Earnhardt after being “intimidated’ by him in the race. On the track however, he raced clean and hard. In 1983 Rusty won the ASA championship while competing against some of NASCAR’s big boys like Mark Martin, Alan Kulwicki and Dick Trickle. He is most remembered for driving the #27 Kodiak Pontiac, a new sponsorship he reached in 1987.

Rusty’s Winston Cup Championship came by 12 points in 1989 when he beat out his close friend and fierce rival Dale Earnhardt. His most successful season was 1993 even though he suffered two serious wrecks at Daytona and Talladega when his car went airborne and flipped several times.

Rusty also drove the #2 Miller Genuine Draft Pontiac affectionately known as “Midnight”. This car raced for six seasons, carrying many wins before being retired in 1997.

On Aug. 30, 2004, Rusty Wallace announced that the coming ’05 season would be his last as a full-time driver. Even at the end of his career, Rusty never missed a step. He qualified for the Chase and finished eighth in the final standings. Today Rusty owns and operates Rusty Wallace, Inc., which runs the #66 Chevrolet driven by Rusty’s son Steve Wallace in the NASCAR Nationwide Series. He also has a broadcasting career with ESPN and ABC. Rusty’s fans will forever remember him for his side-by-side scramble for the win with the #3 Chevrolet when both men were at the top of their game in NASCAR.

Born: August 14, 1956

Birthplace: Fenton, Missouri

Awards:

1979 USAC Stock Car Rookie of the Year

1983 ASA Champion

1984 Rookie of the Year

1989 Winston Cup Champion

1991 IROC Champion

1998 Named one of NASCAR’s 50 Greatest Drivers

Cup Series Statistics:

706 races in 16 years

First race: 1980 Atlanta 500

Last race: 2005 Ford 400 (Homestead)

First win: 1986 Valleydale 500 (Bristol)

Last win: 2004 Advance Auto Parts 500 (Martinsville)

Wins: 55

Top tens: 349

Poles: 36

By: Cindy Pischel

More articles about NASCAR news and auto racing can be found at http://www.speedweekly.net

The best way to watch NASCAR can be found at [http://www.watchautoracing.com]

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Potatoes are a type of vegetable that grows underneath the ground. Not a root crop however, potatoes are actually a storage system known as tubers. Tubers grow best when the soil temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees Farenheit–and they won’t form if the soil temperature goes above 80–so potatoes are considered to be a cool season crop.

Red Pontiac potatoes are mid-season variety that has red skin and deep eyes. They’re well adapted to a variety of conditions that make them a good choice for home growing in your garden.

Requirements

Seed pieces

Water

Fertile soil

Step 1

Cut large potato seed pieces into smaller parts, leaving at least one eye on each piece. Leave small seed pieces whole.

Step 2

Lay the seed pieces in a ventilated area for 12 to 24 hours so the cut sides can cure.

Step 3

Create a furrow in the garden bed about one to three inches deep.

Step 4

Lay the potato seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow, then close the soil over top of them.

Step 5

Once the new potato plant seedlings have emerged, cover the soil with organic mulch such as straw or hay.

Step 6

About once each week, hoe loose soil towards the growing potato plants, forming a ridge. By summer this ridge of loose soil will be about six inches high. This loose soil is needed for the potatoes to grow in without being exposed directly to sunlight.

Step 7

Water the rows of potatoes as often as is needed to ensure they’re kept continually moist.

Tips:

Plant red pontiac potatoes in late March or early April so they have a chance to develop fully before the full heat of summer arrives. The potatoes can withstand freezing temperatures so you don’t have to wait for the last frost before planting.

Since red pontiac potatoes are mid-season, they can also be planted as late as July 1, and harvested for winter storage.

Warnings

Don’t plant the potato starts in soggy soil conditions, or they could rot in the ground before they’re able to sprout.

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The makings of ‘classic cars’ is often a source of debate. Oftentimes, a car is considered to be classic if the public deems it to be ‘collectable.’ Some, however, may seem to contend that there is only a certain period for classic cars–that the ‘real classics’ were only up to 1940′s for example.

Still, some may even try to categorize car models into eras. Thus, we have the muscle car era, the bullet era, the box-type era, and so on. A more precise classification is one which sets up three categories according to which year the cars were manufactured. These are the antique cars, manufactured from 1880 up to the start of WWI; vintage cars, made between 1916 to 1924, and was the start of the real ‘automobiles;’ and classic cars, from 1925 up to the near past.

If you are confused on whether that old hunk o’ junk in your dad’s garage could be worth something, here are some easy guidelines which you can use.

1. Year Manufactured

This is the easiest measure of whether a car is classic or not. You can easily know what year the car is manufactured by checking the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Several sites on the Internet could produce all a car’s details simply by entering its VIN.

If you are new to the concept of classic cars and would want to simply start your own collection, deal with the year loosely. What I mean is, don’t listen to those uptight talks from car enthusiasts about the ‘real’ era for classics. If you find a sweet-looking 10-year old car, you might as well treat it as a vintage vehicle. The reason for this is simple: car values appreciate over time. Well, that is, if you find a right car.

2. Number of Units

An important measure of a car’s “classic-ness” is the number of units that were manufactured and are still in existence. An 80′s to 90′s Corolla could hardly be defined as a classic, since it was mass produced and proliferated all over the globe. But a first-generation Corolla could have some value somehow, since very few people still have it.

A ’55 T-bird is an example of a high-valued classic car, both for the year in which it is manufactured and the number of units released. Ford released only a little more than 10,000 models.

3. Relevance

Not all old cars could be considered as vintage. I personally believe that the title of ‘classic’ could only be conferred to those cars that have represented a generation. A Volkswagen Beetle, though many people may have it, is a good classic car simply because it carries so much history with it. Along with the Type 2 (the VW Van), it represented the hippie generation. And in contrast to that, the Beetle was also the most popular car for the Nazi elite. Those two contradicting layers simply create a very historic vehicle.

Cars could also be considered relevant if they are seen in TV and movies, as they tend to carry some fond memories of a generation. An 80′s Pontiac Trans-Am is not just another high-performance car–it will always be seen as KITT in Knight Rider.

If you have an old car in your garage, you might want to research a bit about its history. You might be holding a valuable gem, and you’re just letting it rust away. And if you just love vehicles and automobiles, maybe you ought to go retro and collect classic cars. Not only do they appreciate in value, they also carry great pieces of history.

Own a vintage car today! Not only are they generation-defining, they also appreciate in value. Classic Vehicle Auction offers the widest variety of classic car makes. Visit http://www.classicvehicleauction.com now! Peter Grizzly is an age-old classic car enthusiast. He makes his living now by selling classic cars for sale.

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